Gruyere Strata

Strata is a savory bread pudding, made with eggs, milk and cheese. It also makes good use of yesterday’s baguette or any other thick-crusted bread that’s past its prime.

The important thing is to use a good strong bread and not wimpy sandwich bread, which will turn to goo when combined with liquid. Bread with a hard crust results in a pleasant, varied texture of soft custard, combined with toothsome morsels.

Gruyere lends its pungent flavor and aroma, making this strata reminiscent of fondue.

Gruyere Strata - serves 4

2 C milk
2 large eggs
6 C cubed thick-crusted French bread
1 1/2 C Gruyere cheese
1 t dry ground mustard
1/2 t salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, toss the bread with two thirds of the shredded cheese. Pour into a greased casserole dish.

Beat the eggs with the milk, salt and mustard in a small bowl. Pour the egg mixture over the bread and cheese.

Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Remove from refrigerator and press down on the bread with the back of a spoon or spatula to submerge the bread. Top with the last third of the cheese.

Bake for 35 – 45 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before serving.

Ingredient origins: Milk – Vermont; Eggs – New Hampshire; Bread – Massachusetts; Gruyere – France; Ground Mustard – Maryland; Sea Salt – Italy

Sun-Dried Tomato Spread

I know, I know, I know. Sun-dried tomatoes are a un peu 1992, but I guess I’m a child of the 90’s. For years I really didn’t care for sun-dried tomatoes, so I missed out on it the first time around. They say your taste can change over time and in this case it certainly has. It’s hard to imagine not liking them now.

Goat cheese has a lovely tang and provides the perfect foil for the sweet sun-dried tomatoes. Olive oil lends a grassy flavor and creates a vehicle for cracker dippage.

This is a good spread to throw together for impromptu visitors, provided that you keep a jar of sun-dried tomatoes in oil on your refrigerator door and, like me, have a good goat cheese on hand at most times.

Sun-dried Tomato Spread – serves 4

4 oz. fresh goat cheese
5 – 7 pieces sun-dried tomato in olive oil, diced (about 4 T), + 1 T oil
2 – 3 T olive oil
a dash of finely ground sea salt

Combine all ingredients in a small mixing bowl. Mash together using a fork.

Transfer to a pretty, pretty dish (as my mother says), using a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl and get all the goodness.

Serve with a sliced baguette or crackers.

Ingredient origins: Goat cheese – Vermont; Sun-dried tomatoes – Turkey; Olive oil – Italy; Sea salt – Maine

Mushroom Spinach Quiche

Quiche is the every-meal. The any-time-of-day item that tends to show up in odd places. Brunch buffets, bridal showers, cafeterias, airport lunch counters. And in many cases, it’s not particularly great. I think the problem is that too often, especially in institutional settings, quiche is served pre-plated and cold, which is just smack in the face of what is, or can be a really good thing. Quiche is best served hot and fresh out of the oven. Freshly grated cheese also makes a difference, as pre-grated cheese usually comes coated in cornstarch which tends to dry out the custard.

The use of sour cream makes this quiche fluffy and light, with just enough vegetable goodness to make you feel like you’re having something relatively nutritious. The spinach fortifies the dish with added folate and vitamin A and the mushrooms take on an almost escargot quality as they steam, tucked away inside the egg mixture.

Coarsely grated, the Gruyere shows up in ostentatiously flowing strands from time to time, making this quiche the opposite of the dry, last resort cafeteria item and more the all-around crave-worthy star that it really should be.

And be sure to serve it hot and fresh, for goodness sake!

Mushroom Spinach Quiche – serves 8

1/2 recipe for pie crust (seen here)
5 oz spinach
1/4 C water
8 shiitake mushrooms, finely diced
8 ounces baby bella mushrooms, finely diced
1 T butter
1 C Gruyere cheese
4 eggs
1 1/2 C sour cream
1/2 t salt

Make the pie crust dough, roll out and spread in an 8 inch pie plate. Form the edges as desired. Refrigerate 10 minutes while the oven heats to 350 degrees.

Fill the pie crust with pastry weights and bake for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large covered skillet, steam the spinach in the water over medium heat for 5 minutes. Remove from heat when wilted, drain and press out any moisture. Allow to cool and finely chop.

Melt butter in a skillet. Add mushrooms and cook, covered for 5 minutes over medium heat. Remove cover and continue to cook 10 more minutes until moisture is almost evaporated. Allow to cool.

In a large bowl, beat eggs. Beat in sour cream. Add spinach, cheese and mushrooms and mix well.

Pour filling into the pie crust.

Bake at 350 for 50 minutes or until the center has lost its gloss. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before serving.

Ingredient origins: Spinach – California; Organic shiitakes – Pennsylvania; Organic baby bellas – Pennsylvania; Butter – Maine; Eggs – New Hampshire; Sour Cream – Vermont; Salt – Maine

Pan-Fried Rosemary Cod

This was the final week of our fish share until the next season which starts in the spring. We got a lovely cod. Fresh cod is so delicate, it deserves to not have its flavor masked by other things. In this case, lemon adds a bit of zing and fresh rosemary lends its mellow flavor without taking over the dish.

While we’re on the topic of fresh herbs vs. dried, I find fresh rosemary to be far less intrusive than dried rosemary, which seems to walk right into a dish and act like it owns the place. Other herbs seem less concentrated when dried, like parsley and basil, but not so with rosemary. Use fresh rosemary for subtle flavor in this dish.

Since we got our fish whole, I left the skin on, but you can do it either way. I find that leaving the skin on helps the fillets stay together when they’re flipped, but if you only have access to skinned fillets of cod, you’re still good. Also, for pan-frying, I like to cut fish fillets into relatively small pieces so that they are easier to flip. Just a personal preference, you can do it either way. It’s your kitchen.

Pan-Fried Rosemary Cod - serves 2 – 4

2 T butter
1/3 C flour
Juice from 1 lemon
1 sprig fresh rosemary, finely chopped (about 1 t)
1 -1 lb fillet of cod

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When it begins to bubble, add the chopped rosemary, reduce heat to low, and allow infuse gradually, 5 – 7 minutes, being careful not to burn the rosemary.

Meanwhile, squeeze lemon juice into a shallow bowl. Pour flour into a separate shallow bowl. Cut to fillet into two to four pieces. Dredge in lemon juice and shake off excess. Dredge in flour and shake off excess.

Raise heat to medium-high. When the butter begins to bubble again, add the fish presentation-side down, or skin-side up. Lower heat to medium and cook for 4 minutes.

Gently shake the pan to loosen the fish from the pan. Using a metal spatula or fish turner, gently flip the fish to cook the other side, being careful to keep the golden crust that’s formed intact. Cook for another 4 minutes.

Serve hot with a wedge of lemon.

Ingredient origins: Butter – Maine; Flour – Vermont; Lemon – California; Rosemary – Massachusetts; Cod – Massachusetts

Vegetarian Lasagna

Making lasagna is like planning a wedding. There are thousands of varying traditions and just as many ways to go about it. Some say location and food are most important, others say music and color scheme. In the end, you just need to decide what’s most important to you.

Some prefer their lasagna with lots of veggies, others like it with beef. I like lasagna to be really saucy and cheesy – stuffed with ricotta cheese, fresh mozzarella and basil.

After years of trying various recipes, and never getting the cheesy result that I wanted – always too noodley, too saucy, too vegetabley – I finally decided to set out on my own. Another thing (and then I promise to get off my lasagna recipe roasting soap box) is that every recipe I’ve ever tried calls for either too many or too few lasagna noodles. Too many and you then have to scramble to mix up more ricotta to make a second batch in whatever other baking pan you have lying around. Too few and you end up with a soupy lasagna.

My lasagna uses a count of twelve 12″ lasagna noodles (you’ll end up with a few in the cabinet later, but it’s a small price to pay for a good lasagna). This recipe also uses more ricotta cheese than most, as well as a good amount of Bechemel. The result is that rich, thick lasagna that you’d find in a good Italian-American restaurant. Great for winter when fresh veggies aren’t available, because the sauce can be made with either fresh or canned tomatoes.

Vegetarian Lasagna – serves 12

12 – 12″ lasagna noodles (this length is pretty standard)
3 cups tomato sauce (see recipe below)
3 cups Bechemel sauce (see recipe below)
1 – 32 oz tub of Ricotta Cheese (I prefer full fat over skim which can become chalky)
1/4 C fresh chopped basil
2 eggs
1/4 C grated Parmesan cheese
1 lb fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
2 T olive oil

Start off by make the sauces (instructions below).

While the tomato sauce simmers and the Bechemel gradually thickens over a very low heat, cook the lasagna noodles about 2 minutes less than instructed and be sure to not allow the water to get to a rolling boil. This ensures that the pasta does not over cook and the decorative ruffles stays intact. Drain and rinse.

Beat eggs in a large bowl. Mix in the ricotta, Parmesan cheese, basil and parsley.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Begin the layers by spreading the bottom of a 13×9 inch lasagna pan with half of the Bechemel sauce. Arrange lasagna noodles at the bottom of the pan so that they overlap – 4 per layer. It’s okay if the noodles are a little short. Just center them and they will continue to grow as they cook and absorb more liquid.

Spread one half of the ricotta mixture over the lasagna noodles. Top with half of the tomato sauce. Cover with another layer of lasagna noodles.

Arrange half of the mozzarella slices over the noodles. Cover with the rest of the Bechemel and then ricotta mixture. Top with the last four lasagna noodles.

Finally, cover the top with the rest of the tomato sauce and artfully arrange the rest of the mozzarella slices. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

Bake for 45 minutes. Allow to rest 10 minutes before serving.

Bechemel Sauce – makes about 2 1/2 cups

1/4 cup salted butter (1/2 stick)
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups milk

Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it bubbles, add flour. Stir over medium heat to form a golden paste. Lower heat and gradually add milk 1/2 cup at a time, whisking each addition until smooth. Keep on very low heat, as you prepare the other lasagna ingredients, whisking occasionally to keep from separating or turning lumpy. Raise heat and whisk to thicken just before assembling the lasagna.

Yankee Cook’s Quick Tomato Sauce – makes about 4 cups

1 T olive oil
1/4 C chopped yellow onion
2 cloves garlic, pressed or smashed and finely diced
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 28 oz can of diced tomatoes
2 T tomato paste
1/3 C vegetable or chicken stock
1 t sugar

Heat olive oil in a 2 quart saucepan over a medium flame. Add onions and cook until transparent, but not browned. Add garlic and carrots and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, stock until well combined. Stir in tomatoes. Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes.

Ingredient origins – Lasagna Noodles – Italy, Canned organic tomatoes – California; Olive oil – Italy, Organic onion – unknown; Garlic – Chile; Carrot – unknown; Tomato paste – unknown; Vegetable stock – my own; Sugar – Florida; Butter – Maine; Flour – Vermont; Milk – Vermont; Ricotta – Wisconsin; Basil – Massachusetts; Eggs – New Hampshire; Parmesan Cheese – Italy; Mozzarella – Vermont