Peach Bacon Greens

I’ve always been a proponent of balance. Savory and sweet come to mind, but also nutritious and not-so-nutritious. A big dish of veggies is great, but why not add a little cheese or bacony goodness to even the playing field between good and wicked? What would good be if there wasn’t a wicked? What would greens be without bacon? Just fine of course, but isn’t everything better with bacon? You’re getting all that lovely nutrition, why not add a little something to it?

I concocted this dish a few weeks ago when I noticed a peach from an earlier visit to the farmer’s market was looking a little peaked. Not bad, just a little past its prime. I couldn’t in good conscience let the poor little thing go to waste – after all he was a local. I decided to cook it somehow.

Then I thought of how lovely it would be sliced and caramelized with a little bacon. But that would be silly wouldn’t it? I could never serve bacon and peaches as a side dish on its own. Or I could, but if I did, it would have to be one of those things I kept to myself – like the cream I pour over berries sometimes when no one is looking, but you didn’t just read that.

Our very generous neighbor had once again gifted us with a fresh assortment of greens from her garden: young kale, chard and New Zealand spinach. Just what this dish needs to become a respectable side dish. It turned out to be fantastic. To be safe, I made it again tonight, this time using mostly young kale and chard.

The best part is that the greens do more than just make this dish respectable. They add that substantial, sunshiny, almost bitterness that would otherwise be lacking in a simple combo of peaches and bacon. A cup of greens contains a day’s supply of folate, peaches are packed with vitamins A and C, and bacon contains baco-endorphins that are essential for omnivore happiness. I made up that last part, but doesn’t it seem a little bit true? A tiny bit?

Cooking condenses the sweetness in peaches, and grilling with a little bacon fat caramelizes the surface for a smoky, crisp crust. Tossed with the bacon you have sweet and smoky, salty perfection. With nutrient-rich greens, no less.

Peach Bacon Greens – serves 2

4 slices of bacon (about 4 ounces), cut into 1 inch strips
1 peach, diced
2 – 3 cups fresh young greens (kale, chard, spinach, etc.), stems removed

In a large frying pan, brown the bacon over medium high heat until most of the fat is rendered. Drain.

Lower heat to medium-low and add peaches. Saute for 3 minutes until peaches become slightly translucent and begin to form a golden brown crust.

Add the greens and toss with the bacon and peaches. Continue to cook until the greens are just wilted – about 2 – 5 minutes (depending on the thickness of the leaves).

Remove from heat and serve to people who trust your judgment.

Ingredient origins: bacon – Vermont; peach – Massachusetts; greens – right next door.

Goat vs. Lamb: Rib Chops with Gooseberry Currant Relish

I came across gooseberries and currants at my local farmers market the other day and immediately thought of the goat rib chops we have in the refrigerator from Riverslea Farm in Epping, New Hampshire. Wouldn’t they make a lovely relish?

Not wanting to ruin the goat in case the relish idea failed, I decided to test it out with lamb rib chops first. While lamb has a milder flavor and is not as lean as goat, both provide a strong savoriness that begs for a little sweetness.

Both gooseberries and currants are tart. Combining the two allows the flavors to layer for added complexity. The first time around, I made the relish as you see in the recipe below – with 1 cup of water and 1/2 cup of brown sugar. I tweaked it for the goat, using less water and sugar and found that the gooseberries and currants really do need that extra sweetness. The currants also need the added moisture and simmer time to soften the seeds inside of the berry. The second time around with less water and sugar turned out to be too tart and too dry: see the relish fail here. The goat chops were fantastic though.

So, although the relish below looks like the makings of a jam, it really works nicely with goat and lamb – like the mint jelly your Grandfather used to have with lamb chops, except much, much better.

I served the lamb over a bed of steamed garlic greens – a combination of young kale, New Zealand spinach and pepper greens – a gift from our neighbor’s garden. It’s just so nice when 90% of a meal is that fresh and local. The goat was arranged around a mound of mashed red potatoes.

On the nutritional side of things, currants contain more antioxidants than blueberries and loads of vitamin C. Gooseberries are high in vitamin A and C. Goat is lower in cholesterol than pork or lamb.

Goat vs. Lamb? Either. If it’s a choice between locally raised goat or lamb that’s been shipped from another hemisphere, I’d go with the goat. Goat definitely has a stronger flavor, but the two are similar. If you like that tangy lamb flavor, you’ll most likely enjoy goat.

Goat or Lamb Rib Chops with Gooseberry Currant Relish – serves 2

3/4 C gooseberries
1/2 C currants
1 C water
1/2 C brown sugar
1 rack of lamb or goat ribs
1 T paprika
salt
olive oil

Begin with the relish. Remove the stems from the currants. Remove the stems and the little fuzzy things from the gooseberries (see pic). Bring water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the sugar, stir to dissolve and add the gooseberries and currants. Lower heat slightly and simmer for 20 – 30 minutes until reduced.

Meanwhile, separate the rack into chops if this hasn’t already been done. Rub with salt and paprika. Heat oil on a griddle over medium high heat. Add the chops. Cook for 4 minutes on either side. Using tongs, adjust the ribs to sear all sides.

Plate over steamed greens or mashed potatoes, if desired, with relish served on the side.

Ingredient Origins: gooseberries and currants – Massachusetts; brown sugar – unknown; goat rib chops – New Hampshire; lamb rib chops – Australia; paprika – Spain; salt – Maine; olive oil – Italy

Chipotle Mango Shrimp

I’m picky about shrimp. I’m picky about most things relating to food and where it comes from. Because I try to eat locally, I tend not to purchase items that have been shipped halfway around the globe, unless it’s a specialty ingredient that can’t be grown or raised here. Which brings me back to shrimp.

Most shrimp sold in conventional supermarkets in the US are farm-raised in Southeast Asia and, as you know, farm-raised seafood is not the greatest thing for the environment or for our health. It also lacks flavor, in my opinion.

I’ve always been a big fan of wild-caught Gulf pink shrimp, which is sweet and tender. Normally, I try keep a bag of frozen wild Gulf shrimp on hand – a habit that sadly may have to change due to recent events in the Gulf. Of course frozen pales in comparison to the real deal, caught locally and served fresh – it’s always been my favorite specialty on vacations to Florida.

Hopefully all is not lost. In the meantime, wild shrimp is still available from the Carolinas and Georgia, including pink shrimp, so there is still no need to settle for imported farm-raised shrimp.

Anyway, this dish makes a light and healthy meal for lunch or dinner that’s quick to boot. Onions scapes are all over the farmers market scene this time of year. They add a beautiful savory-sweet flavor and toothsome texture. Chipotle adds smoky spice and mango cools things down. I like it served over soba or udon noodles, but brown rice is also great for a nice nutty flavor to counter the spice.

Chipotle Mango Shrimp – serves 4

5 onion scapes, chopped
1 T olive oil
1 lb  uncooked peeled and deveined medium shrimp
3 T chipotle en adobo (here is a recipe, or you can buy it in a can or jar)
2 champagne mangos, diced

Heat olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped scapes, lower heat to medium and sauté for 10 minutes until softened.

Add the shrimp and chipotle sauce and toss in the pan to coat. Cook 5 minutes.

Add the mango and cook an additional 5 minutes.

Serve over noodles or rice.

Ingredient origins: onion scapes – New Hampshire, olive oil – Italy,  shrimp – Florida Keys, chipotle sauce – homemade,  (organic onion – Massachusetts, organic garlic – New Jersey, lime – Mexico, dried chipotles – Mexico, organic apple cider vinegar – Vermont, tomato paste – California), champagne mango – Mexico

Avocadango Walnut Salad

As you know, avocados and mangoes are not native to New England, so this post kind of flies in the face of my whole local theme, but oh well. It’s winter in New England. Fruit must come from somewhere and mangoes and avocados are among my favorites.

I devised this salad a few years ago when I was on a bit of a pine nut kick. I’ve since decided to cool it on the pine nuts until more information comes out about “pine nut-associated cacogeusia” – a disorder that came to light last winter that causes some people to experience a metallic taste in their mouth for up to two weeks after eating some pine nuts. It’s yet undetermined which pine nuts cause the disorder. That’s scary stuff and I’d rather not take any risks. I now make this salad with walnuts and the soft texture works just as well.

Refreshing, sweet mango and creamy avocado offset the greens’ coy bitterness and the walnuts bring texture. In addition being absolutely ambrosial, this salad is so absurdly nutritious, it’s radicchio. Walnuts are rich in omega-3, avocados contain plenty of potassium and vitamins B6 and K, mango is heavy on vitamins A and C, and greens offer a good source of folate.

And yes, I’m taking poetic license with the name.

Avocadango Walnut Salad – serves 2

1 mango
1 avocado
1 T lemon juice
1/3 C walnuts
5 ounces mixed baby salad greens (arugula, spinach, radicchio, etc)
2 T olive oil
2 T balsamic vinegar

Peel the mango and cut into 1 inch cubes.

Halve the avocado, remove pit and scoop either side from its shell. Cut into 1 inch cubes and toss with lemon juice.

Using tongs, in a large serving bowl (or whatever, it’s your kitchen) toss the salad greens with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Add the avocado, mango and walnuts, being careful to not squish the avocado or allow the walnuts to gather at the bottom.

Ingredient origins: Organic mango – Chile; Organic avocado – Mexico; Organic lemon – Florida; Walnuts – California; Organic salad greens – Maine; Olive oil – Italy; Balsamic vinegar – Italy. I know. The whole local thing was completely thrown out the window for this recipe, but all of my readers in sunny California would be able to pull it off in good locavore fashion!

Lemon Tarragon Teacake

Teacakes. Is it not the most adorable word? It conjures images of flowery tablecloths, delicate china and smiling aunties.

Tarragon is a social chameleon. The Gatsby of herbs. It gets along just as well in sweet dishes as it does with its more common savory partners. This recipe demonstrates the former. Lemony, sweet and dense, Lemon Tarragon Teacake is the perfect showcase for tarragon’s delicate, mellow flavor. Confectionery sugar creates a nice crisp top.

For the full herb garden effect, try it with lavender, chamomile, jasmine or a similar floral tea.

Lemon Tarragon Teacake – serves 10

2 T lemon juice
2 eggs
1/4 C canola oil
1 C sour cream
3 C confectionery sugar
2 C flour
2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
3 T chopped fresh tarragon

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a medium size bowl, combine lemon juice, eggs, canola oil and sour cream. Mix in confectionery sugar 1/2 cup at a time.

Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl. Mix the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Fold in the fresh tarragon

Pour into a metal loaf pan and bake for 55 -65 minutes until a wooden tooth pick comes out clean.