Cod en Papillote

It’s fish share day again and this week’s Fresh Catch was cod. As much as I love creating all of my silly little fish recipes, I still think the best way to enjoy fresh cod is simply baked with butter. Wrapping it in parchment paper allows the fish to steam as it bakes without drying out the meat.

Also, making the papillote, or pouch, is like making a fun little Valentine for your fish, because the paper is cut into a heart shape before the sides are tucked.

Dill is the classic match for cod and lends its fresh, grassy flavor without barging right in, and butter is butter. You know the deal.

Any white round fish similar to cod (haddock, pollock, etc), will work perfectly for this dish. I just happened to have plenty of fresh cod laying around today.

Cod en Papillote – serves 2 – 4

1 – 1 lb cod, haddock or pollock fillet
2 T butter
3 – 5 sprigs of fresh dill, finely chopped (about 2 T)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

While the oven preheats, melt the butter in an oven-proof dish until lightly browned and bubbling.

Place the fillet diagonally on the left-hand side of a large piece of parchment paper – large enough for the right half of the paper to fold over the top of the fillet. Fold the right-hand side of the paper over the fish. Allowing a 2 or 3 inch margin on all sides, cut out the silhouette of the fish just as if you’re cutting out a heart for a Valentine Day card.

Turn the paper back again to pour the browned butter over the fish and sprinkle with dill.

Fold the paper over. Tuck and crease the edges to form a seal.

Cook for 10-15 minutes until the fish is just beginning to flake apart with a fork.

The fish and butter will form a rich sauce in the papillote. Be sure to spoon this over each serving for maximum yums.

Serve hot.

Filo Fish Pie

I eat a lot of fish. In fact, we belong to a Cape Ann Fresh Catch, a community supported fishery. It’s great and there’s often a quite a bit left over. I developed this recipe during our winter share, when we had a good amount of excess each week and I wanted to create a decadent and flavorful dish with the leftover cooked fish. For some reason, when I think decadent, I always think flaky.

Briny and sharp, feta adds satisfying tang to white fish. Flaky filo makes this dish reminiscent of burek (though not nearly as rich and fantastic – it’ll be a mighty day when I have the chops to pull off burek).

Filo Fish Pie – serves 4 – 6

1.5 lb cooked (poached or baked) cod, haddock, pollock or another round white fish
1/2 lb filo dough (about 20 sheets)
6 – 8 ounces feta cheese, diced
1/3 C olive oil

If starting with fresh fish as opposed to leftover, begin by baking or oven-poaching the fish at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. If poaching, I recommend using a combination of 1/2 C white wine and 1/2 C fish stock.

Remove any skin or pin bones from the fish.

Brushing each layer of filo dough with olive oil as you go, layer10 sheets (or half of a 1/2 lb. package) into baking dish Depending on the size, the sheets may need to be folded or overlapped to line the dish. It’s not a huge deal if it’s not perfect. Despite how delicate filo is, it’s also forgiving in the end result.

Place chunks of the fish in the filo-lined dish. Top with diced feta.

Layer the rest of the filo over the the top of the pie, brushing each layer as before. Fold the edges up over the sides to seal.

Bake 25 minutes at 350 until golden brown.

Ingredient origins: Cod – Coastal New England; White wine – California; Feta – Maine; Filo – New Jersey; Olive oil – Italy

Grilled Turmeric Salmon

Whenever we had fish when I was growing up my father would turn to me and say, in a feigned serious tone, “You know what they say about fish, don’t you? It’s brain food.” Oh yes, that’s right. It is.

Well, so are some spices. Turmeric, high in curcumin, the compound that gives curry its yellow hue, is said to potentially stave off Alzheimer’s and certain cancers. In fact, societies that use turmeric in their cuisine are known to have lower rates of Alzheimer’s than those that don’t. Whether it will save my memory or not, I like to use turmeric where I can. It adds flavor and color to boot. Adding spice is also a great way to avoid the need to add salt.

We just had a lovely weekend of warm weather, and so we decided it was time to bust out the grill for the first time this season. If you like fish, a fish broiler, also called a fish grill basket, is a great tool to have on hand for barbecue season. It allows the fish to grill over an open flame without falling apart when flipped or falling through the grates. The only other tool I would recommend is a grill thermometer, so that you know when the coals are hot enough to cook.

Turmeric adds a mellow flavor to the salmon and the grill does there rest.

Grilled Turmeric Salmon – serves 2 – 4

1 lb salmon fillets
2 T olive oil
1 t turmeric

Using a brush or your hands, coat the salmon wit olive oil. Dust the fillets with turmeric. I like to use a sifter to avoid clumps and get an even distribution.

Either secure the fish in a grill basket, or make a little pan out of tin foil.

When the grill is heated to 400 degrees, place the fish over the coals, skin side down, and cover for 5 – 7 minutes, checking once or twice to see that it isn’t burning. If using a basket, flip the salmon. If not, move it to a cooler part of the grill and cover another 3 – 5 minutes. It’s okay if the skin get a little charred. The meat is protected buy the skin, so charring will not effect the flavor.

The salmon is done when the meat just begins to seep white. Remove from heat. Place the basket, skin side up, over a dish or cutting board. Open cage and, allowing gravity to do its job, gently lift the top side of the cage. If the fish sticks, carefully press the fish from the top of the cage, allowing it to release.

Plate and serve with grilled vegetables.

Ingredient origins: Salmon – Alaska (I know, I know, I know. I live in New England, so why not go for Atlantic Salmon? Because it’s over fished and farmed salmon is just awful for the environment and for us); Olive oil – Italy, Turmeric – India

Pan-Fried Rosemary Cod

This was the final week of our fish share until the next season which starts in the spring. We got a lovely cod. Fresh cod is so delicate, it deserves to not have its flavor masked by other things. In this case, lemon adds a bit of zing and fresh rosemary lends its mellow flavor without taking over the dish.

While we’re on the topic of fresh herbs vs. dried, I find fresh rosemary to be far less intrusive than dried rosemary, which seems to walk right into a dish and act like it owns the place. Other herbs seem less concentrated when dried, like parsley and basil, but not so with rosemary. Use fresh rosemary for subtle flavor in this dish.

Since we got our fish whole, I left the skin on, but you can do it either way. I find that leaving the skin on helps the fillets stay together when they’re flipped, but if you only have access to skinned fillets of cod, you’re still good. Also, for pan-frying, I like to cut fish fillets into relatively small pieces so that they are easier to flip. Just a personal preference, you can do it either way. It’s your kitchen.

Pan-Fried Rosemary Cod - serves 2 – 4

2 T butter
1/3 C flour
Juice from 1 lemon
1 sprig fresh rosemary, finely chopped (about 1 t)
1 -1 lb fillet of cod

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When it begins to bubble, add the chopped rosemary, reduce heat to low, and allow infuse gradually, 5 – 7 minutes, being careful not to burn the rosemary.

Meanwhile, squeeze lemon juice into a shallow bowl. Pour flour into a separate shallow bowl. Cut to fillet into two to four pieces. Dredge in lemon juice and shake off excess. Dredge in flour and shake off excess.

Raise heat to medium-high. When the butter begins to bubble again, add the fish presentation-side down, or skin-side up. Lower heat to medium and cook for 4 minutes.

Gently shake the pan to loosen the fish from the pan. Using a metal spatula or fish turner, gently flip the fish to cook the other side, being careful to keep the golden crust that’s formed intact. Cook for another 4 minutes.

Serve hot with a wedge of lemon.

Ingredient origins: Butter – Maine; Flour – Vermont; Lemon – California; Rosemary – Massachusetts; Cod – Massachusetts

Fried Northern Shrimp

Yesterday was fish share day. We picked up the last 5 lb bag of beautifully fresh native Northern Shrimp of the season from our Community Supported Fishery. Northern shrimp are the only shrimp native to New England and from what I understand, they’re only around in the middle of winter. So this is the end of the line for us until next year. How exciting! What to do, what to do?

I decided to fry them. Northern shrimp are very sweet and you’d think breading and frying would mask their delicate flavor. Not so in this case.

A light coating of flour and panko creates just the right amount of crunch to showcase their tenderness without weighing them down in oil, and the savory seasonings complement the shrimp’s sweetness. The key is starting each batch with the oil at 375 degrees, and keeping it above 300 degrees as it fries. If the temperature slips below 300 degrees, the breading will absorb the oil rather than browning and it will become saturated. That said, these are easy to make, and the result rivals anything you’d find at your local seaside clam shack.

Fried Northern Shrimp – Serves 4 – 6

5 – 6 C Northern Shrimp, peeled with heads and tails removed (about 5 lbs whole)
1.5 C flour
1 C panko crumbs
1 t salt
3 t old bay seasoning
1.5 – 2 quarts canola oil

If purchased whole, remove

In a medium bowl mix flour, panko, salt and old bay seasoning. Dredge the shrimp in the flour mixture and shake off excess.

Arrange paper towels for draining – I like to use a baking sheet covered with one layer of paper towels, then a cooling rack and another layer of paper towels. This way the top layer absorbs oil and the lower layer catches any drips. But hey, it’s your kitchen.

Heat oil to 375 degrees in a large stockpot or fryer. Start off with about a quart and a half, and you may need to add a little bit more with each batch. Carefully drop shrimp into the oil in batches, 2 cups at a time. Adjust with a heat resistant spoon to be sure they do not stick together. Cook 1- 2 minutes. Remove with a spider or strainer and place on paper towels to drain. Let the oil get back up to 375 degrees before adding the next batch.

Serve hot with a squish of lemon and maybe a bit of tartar sauce.

Ingredient origins: Northern shrimp – the waters right outside our door; Flour – Vermont; Panko – unknown; Sea salt – Maine; Seasoning – Maryland; Canola oil – unknown